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The batteries and gun emplacements at Castillitos and El Jorel, Cabo Tiñoso
Cartagena Spain, following the military trail, Cabo Tiñoso ("the guns")
These two battery emplacements are well worth a visit, whether you have any interest in military history or not, and are a great place to take the visitors, offering stunning views, interesting architecture and fabulous great guns which make wonderful holiday photographs.
They were constructed between 1926 and 1933 as part of a sophisticated defence network which aimed to protect Cartagena and its important military arsenal.
44 elements covered every angle of attack and batteries were constructed in a ring which encircled Cartagena and out along the coast as part of the Plan de Defensa of 1926.
The location at Cabo Tiñoso was chosen because of its strategic location, 218 metres above the sea on a rocky cliff top with easily defendable access, and Vickers guns, made in the UK, which were the best in the world for anti-shipping defence at this time, were situated at this point, giving a 35km firing range.
There are 2 different batteries at Cabo Tiñoso, La Bateria del Jorel, which houses three 1923 model Vickers 152.4mm, 45 calibre anti-shipping guns, and the Bateria de Castillitos which has the enormous Vickers 381mm guns still in place, measuring 17 metres in length, which could fire a projectile weighing a ton over a distance of 35 km
Part of the excitement in visiting the batteries is that these enormous guns are still in situ, bar one of the Vickers 152.4mm guns which was dismantled and removed to Almeria during the 1936-1939 Spanish Civil war.
The big guns of Castillitos were only ever fired once in action against Nationalist forces in April 1937, but the knowledge of the havoc they could wreak was enough of a deterrent to ensure that they were not required to take part in further combat, and with time they were rendered obsolete, these 2 military installations finally going out of service in 1994 when the Plan Norte modernized and rationalized the Spanish armed forces.
For many years these batteries have been left to go to rack and ruin, but during 2010, work began to start tidying up these important military installations. During 2011, works were carried out to improve the access roads, create parking areas, clear away the rubble and signs of neglect, and clean up the graffiti which was defacing the buildings. This work has made the location a much more attractive tourism site and in 2013 the battery was nominated as being one of the best tourist sites in spain by the prestigious Repsol travel guide.
There are several factors which make a trip up to "the guns" as they are popularly called by the local population, such an enjoyable trip - the stunning scenery, the excitement of the guns themselves, and the bizarre architecture.
Although these fortifications have a serious military purpose, and were deliberately built using naturally rocky formations that would render them invisible from sea, the builders of the time just couldn't help embracing the modernist eclecticism that was so fashionable in Cartagena at the time the fortifications were constructed and built an almost Disneyesque construction with fantasy turrets and ice cream gun towers, which is not only a real joy to explore, but makes great holiday photos as well.
How many visitors to Murcia have been snapped on top of, wrapped around, or peering into one of these magnificent Vickers Guns, and certainly the youngsters were having a great time posing on top of the Castillitos Vickers 381s on New Year's day, in fact it was so busy up there that it was hard to get a photo without half of Murcia in it!
Visiting Castillitos
A warning to those who are proposing to visit with young children-politically correct British Health and Safety officials would have the builders of this place dug up and shot for good measure, as there are many places where unsupervised youngsters could come to grief, and some of the buildings are in a bit of a state, so be careful where they run around and watch out for the edges of the road walking up between batteries. Be particularly careful if there are young children in the party.
Those with a steely disposition and lots of energy may enjoy exploring the anti aircraft battery on the right hand side just before arriving at the 2 batteries, which occupy the highest point and have fabulous views across Castillitos and Jorel.
Unfortunately, recent "improvements" to the site mean that it is no longer possible to drive to Castillitos itself. Instead, limited parking has been provided around half a kilometre from the entrance to the main battery, and the walk is first down downhill and then uphill.
This means that the visitied is no longer recommended for anyone with limited mobility, and for those with young children only the sturdiest of pushcharirs with large wheels will be usable on the rough terrain: tired 3-year-olds will require carrying, making the winding staircases tough to negotiate!
These two photos show the guns being dragged up to the Cenizas battery in Cartagena , which has the same Vickers 381s as Cabo Tinoso and the El Jorel battery actually firing
Although those who don't wish to walk too much can still enjoy visiting the site, it is uneven and rocky and can be hard work if you have severe physical difficulties.
The top section is a great place for a picnic, as you really are on top of the world and the views are fantastic.
There are no facilities of any sort, so bring everything, and the nearest toilets are several kilometers down in the bottom of the valley at the little neighbourhood social centre in Campillo de Adentro where refreshments and Bocadillos can be obtained either on the way up or down.
How to get to the Cabo Tinoso Batteries of Castillitos and El Jorel: directions
The guns are at Cabo Tiñoso, which is accessed from the E16 Puerto de Mazarron- Cartagena Road.
From Puerto de Mazarron hug the coast past the lighthouse roundabout, through Isla Plana, and out the other side, but carry on straight past the turning for La Azohia and continue to head for Cartagena. A little past the La Azohia turning, there is a signpost for Campillo de Adentro: take this right-hand turn and just keep going for several km along the bottom of the valley and then you'll climb right up to the top, twisting and turning up to the batteries. Its a good few kilometres, but although the road is twisty and narrow it is normally in good condition (except after heavy rain and rock falls!).
As you're driving up, think of the people back in the 1920's who had to build all this without the assistance of a JCB. The dock in La Azohia, which today is so well used by pleasure boaters to launch from, was built especially to bring in the guns, and every scrap of material used in the construction had to be hauled up this hill.
When reaching a fork in the road, take the left hand option which leads up to the batteries. The right fork, which heads to the radio antenna on the top of the hill above the village of La Azohía, has now been closed off to traffic but those wanting to see the view can get out and wlak for around a kilometre.
Click for Campillo de Adentro
There are no opening hours , no personnel on-site, and no facilities.
Catering - bring everything. There are some excellent Menús del Día available in Isla Plana and La Azohia, together with lots of nice cafés and places to enjoy a drink afterwards.
Avoid really windy days, this site is very high up and the weather can become quite unpleasant!
Would we recommend it?
For those of a nervous disposition, nervous drivers or poor mobility, no. For everyone else, absolutely!
Interesting info
The Vickers guns here at Castillitos are mirrored on the other side of Cartagena by a matching pair at the Cenizas battery, so if you are of an adventurous nature, it's interesting to visit the two sites. Castillitos is much more interesting from a visual point of view and the drive up to it is quite exciting, whereas Cenizas has only the 2 guns and very little else, but involves a 40-minute walk up the track to get to it. However, its a great walk to do in the evening or morning, and has fabulous views out across Portmán.
There are other locations of military interest in Cartagena, Click Cartagena military trail